Monday, 7 August 2017

Redemptor Dread | Weathering Part I

Running orks I have a terrible habit of really going to town on weathering, to be honest you can't go wrong on orks; rusty, grimy, weather beaten, grungy, it's all good. Space marines - not so good...

Some of you might remember my Carcharodon Contemptor from way back, he was rusted to hell and then some. I'm working on the theory that on extended campaigns, Carcharodons don't have the luxury of refitting and polishing their armour however revered they might be. This guy was on a toxic planet, disrupting the local militia with hit and run attacks and he'll get cleaned up when the jobs done. While I had the transfers out for the redemptor, he had one added to the left shoulder and right knee, a few dabs of abbadon black on a sponge later to knock them back and he's ready for the matt varnish.





Next up, the mighty redemptor, I still need to go back in and add more chips and dings with a brush, but he's so close to being done, and I'm pleased with the, for me, subtle weathering. His base turned out crap, but I managed to lever him off without any damage using the original GW metal sculpting tool (it does have a use), and he'll be back on there once that's sorted.





Finally, I dug up my Relic Contemptor dread, and he had the transfer treatment, a little clean up and I found a half decent base to slap him on. It's a little 20th century, but I bought it, it's getting used! I wanted him in repose, originally like he was either on watch, looks too relaxed for the that, or better yet, heaving a breather after ripping the enemy a new one, so once he's had the weathering added, a pin into his foot to keep him on the base, I'll break out Blood for the Blood God technical paint (another first for me) and flick that across him and see how that works out... last shot, all three in one go, fancy facing off against this triumvirate?





Saturday, 5 August 2017

Redemptor dread | Highlights done and transfers on

The black exhaust covers really made the back of this fella pop, so much happier with how it looks now.

Not as happy with the shoulders, those transfers are just too big. Given how taciturn these guys are, having their chapter badge viewable from space isn't sitting well with me. Hopefully I can get the weathering done on Sunday night and that might calm it down a little. Worst case scenario, these are coming off and I'll leave them plain.

Apologies for the reflections on some of the photos, those transfers are getting the first of many, many, many layers of ardcoat varnish, this will hide the edges of the transfer and make it look painted on - supposedly. After weathering it'll get a coat of matt varnish to bring it all together.

Fave transfer?, the little one on the power fist. Nice!

Speaking of plain, that's how I'm leaving the sarcophogus, again I don't feel the Carcharodons would name who was interred, had I my time over again, I'd have dremelled the detail off there and left it blank as per the images in the Badab War FW book. As 95% of the time the "doors" will be closed, you don't see it anyway. Gone are the days when I worried about such stuff. Get 'em built, get 'em painted and get a game in...









Thursday, 3 August 2017

Redemptor Dread | Flat colours down

Carcharodons won it, clearly had a massive parcel from Cawl a few decades back.

All going according to plan, the arax earthshade gloss took forever to dry, so I hit it with a hairdryer, with the added advantage that the elbow joint on the power fist now moves. Only dilemna I have is whether to make the exhaust covers black to add some interest to the back. I prefer my sharks to be very utilitarian but it does look flat at the minute. Heavy weathering follows at the weekend and that might be enough to add some interest to the back of this awesome model.






Wednesday, 2 August 2017

Redemptor Dread | Built

One of the best kits GW have produced, great proportions, lots of flexibility. Hardly a moldline anywhere, easily the cleanest kit I've ever worked on. Instructions are clear for what could be quite a technical build, my tip, go slow, dry fit and doublecheck everything. Then check it again.

Only issue I had was seating the assault cannon shoulder in before some excess glue had cured, it set rock solid, not a big deal as I hadn't planned to swap out the weapons, though I will make sure that the next one(s) don't suffer the same problem, maybe magnets? If nothing else leaving as much as possible unglued gives better access when painting, which incidentally is tonights gig.

Black Templar or Carcharodon? Wait and see...









Saturday, 29 July 2017

Realm of Battle boards | Coming along nicely

Bristle brushes are noisy!
Sat in the shed this morning doing endless circular motions with a bristle brush (sorry neighbours). As I was not sure how effective the WD40 would be I only sprayed 3 boards to begin with and concentrated on cleaning up the two flattest. If nothing else the WD40 turned the snow blue and gluey, which means you do have to remove it, it looks rubbish. They look SO much better already!

On the last 3 I'm going with stiff bristle brush first, and maybe just that on it's own. I never fixed the snow in place so a LOT comes off really easily, and you get a patchy and realistic effect that's pretty well bonded to the board, and if I get paint onto those areas they just look like textured ground anyway.

Now that I've had a brew and a think I'm going for the repaint option, I've the 6 boards you can see below, plus the crashed Thunderhawk board from Forge World, it'll be to tricky to match across the lot so time to head over to B&Q and get them to make me a pot each of The Fang, Baneblade Brown and Mechanicus Standard Grey. Alos, the boards are way bluer than I'd like, clearly designed to have more snow on them than I am going to end up with so I'dd add in some random greys, browns, greens to stop it looking so unnatural.





Monday, 24 July 2017

Realm of Battle Board: hit the chaos black respray button

I went on the Realm of Battle Masterclass several years ago, opting to go with a winter theme. While the initial paint job was grand; undercoat black, basecoat with The Fang, heavy drybrush with Baneblade Brown and a slightly less heavy drybrush of Mechanicus Standard Grey. Final hit of a circling drybrush, very lightly with Ceramite White. Boards looked fab and I couldn't have been happier.

My gut instinct was to ignore the next stage, take these back home and do the drifting snow effect back home, but with almost the whole afternoon left it was daub some pva glue onto the great looking boards and dump into a ready made foamex box. Sprinkled liberally with snow, you've no need to imagine how crap they ended up as there are plenty of photos below... always trust your gut instinct

I had a go at improving these last summer, why I feel the need to work on snowscapes in the middle of a heatwave, I know not? Then, I used a butter knife to get under the worst of the "mini hills" of glue and got a rough (NOT wire) scourer to get the worst of the snow off. The hills (images 1 and 2) have had this treatment, ok it knocked back the winter wonderland look, but still not enough. On image 13 you can see the gouge marks where I've gotten under the pva. Thoroughly disheartened, it's back in the bag they go.

Fed up with the finished look of these, I finally decided this weekend, enough is enough, and a quick tour of Google et al gave me the info I needed, spray WD40 onto the boards. This dissolves the glue and you can scrape what's left off and be back at the painted boards. That's the plan and I'll update you in a few days with how these turned out, but the plan is to remove all the snow and repaint if necessary, hopefully not. I'll sprinkle the scenic snow from above, to mimic nature, not sure yet but a straw or hairdryer to form the drifts. Watered down pva sprayed on to lock it all in place and I should end up with a rocky terrain with a light drifting snowfall, lots of drifts to the hills and snow in the cracks on the 'paths'. We'll see...

Below are the boards before I went into the garden and liberally coated them in WD40, results to follow.


















Monday, 3 July 2017

Primaris Black Templars – so close to done...

I've never got so many painted so fast, well, fast for me. Guess these took about 2 weeks, so 3 – 4 nights a week, 2-3 hours a night. 24 hours to get this far. 

Another night of finessing to tidy up the eyes and any overspill, quick drybrush and edge the bases, and I should be sorted. Liking the fast paint job. Bleached bone instead of white, dark reaper drybrush over black, with a nuln oil (gloss) over the top. This should all flatten down nicely with a coat of satin, and I think I'll revisit my existing Templars and give them the same treatment (one day). I've another another batch of Primaris to paint as Charcharodons, looking forward to finding an equally fast way to paint those which should keep me busy through July.